Markley

 

At the end of our Culinary and Spiritual Tour Markley spent 4 days hiking and camping in the Western Ghats, the mountain range that runs down the spine of South India and divides Tamil Nadu from Kerala. After the heat of the plains, the cool mountains and spectacular scenery was a welcome change.

This section of the Western Ghats is covered with montane grassland. Dense tropical forests line the streams that flow through the valleys.

Mesapulimala is the highest peak in Tamil Nadu, rising about 8600 feet above sea level.

The summit is often wreathed in clouds. Just below, the clouds billow over the ridge line.

The Nilgiri Tahr is an endemic mountain goat (actually most closely related to sheep.) They spring nimbly from rock to rock.

Stay tuned for a possible Vedic Odyssey adventure into the wild and scenice Western Ghats next year!

 

After two nights in Kanadukathan in the heart of the Chettinad district in Tamil Nadu, we headed west to Madurai, ancient Tamil capital of the south for the last night of our culinary and spiritual adventure. The beautiful Heritage Madurai resort was home for the last night and finale dinner.

As is tradition on our trips, everyone gets dressed up for the last night. A sumptuous traditional Tamil thali dinner was on the menu, a perfect end to a wonderful culinary journey of South India.

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A private dining room lit with traditional oil lamps was set aside for our group

Probably one of the best meals on the trip...

 

Madurai has a brand new state-of-the-art airport. But there are still some traditional Indian touches…

 

At a small Shiva temple in the countryside of the Chettinad region, we stopped to participate in a Hindu custom in which a coconut is smashed on the ground in front of the temple to symbolize the smashing of the ego.


The temple was beautifully kept and practically deserted, a change from the crowded temples of the last few days. We carry our coconuts past rows of statues depicting the Tamil sages.


In front of the temple, each person flings their coconut to the ground and they all break with a satisfying crack.

 

Today we went to the small town of Pillayarpatti in the heartland of Chettinad to an ancient Ganesha temple. The priests in the temple come from the best priest training school in South India and the ceremonies are conducted with incredible rigor and to the highest standard. Ancient Sanskrit prayers are chanted by legions of young priests, as their elders perform the ceremonies. We attended the fire ceremony, or Homa, in which a wood fire is built in a specially constructed hall, and ritual herbs, roots, foods and spices are burned. This charges containers of water with sacred energy and when these are later poured over the Ganesha image in the main sanctuary, the energy is transferred.

The priest pours ghee into the fire.


Our group is seated for the hour-long ceremony.


As more and more offerings are poured into the fire, it roars to life.


Charlie and Debbie, outside the temple after the ceremonies.

 

Ayyanar is a village god, loosely affiliated with Hinduism, but emerging from a folk tradition of protective deities that keep disease and misfortune away from small rural villages.  In one area of Tamil Nadu, the Ayyanar cult is particularly strong and many villages have Ayyanar shrines on the outskirts of town, where, for hundreds of years, villagers have offered terracotta horses to Ayyanar as thanks for blessings, or in the hopes of future good fortune.

 

Driving down the road to Thanjavur, we crossed a river where a temple elephant was about to get one of her two daily baths.

We leapt from the bus and hurried down to the river side to watch. Olga led the charge and quickly developed a special affinity with Shamala the elephant.

While elephants are partially self-cleaning, and can shower themselves with great trunkfuls of water…

…nothing beats a good old-fashioned scrubbing. With some small assistance from us, the elephant keepers spent about half an hour, meticulously scrubbing every inch of the elephant to the obvious enjoyment of Shamala. Some of us had recently come from the ayurvedic spa and could appreciate the feeling!

Mark and Charlie view the elephant bathing from the bridge

Debbie loves Shamala

Shamala, the elephant, belongs to the Murugan temple in Swamimalai.

Shamala is a Saivite (one of the sects of Hinduism) and after her bath, the traditional markings of a Saivite are placed on her.